Dionysian Customs

The most important custom of the Twelve Days, in the area of Drama, is the disguises that are customary, in the form of puppets, on Epiphany days. These events, with their general ethical framework, are local variations of the custom of the Dodecahmer disguises, which have survived to this day with surprising vitality in Macedonia, rescuing and continuing the tradition of the inhabitants. Customs, which despite the social evolution, incorporate elements of the Dionysian cult, materials handed down from the ancestors and intertwined with the bucolic way of life of the people, but also the traditional instruments of the musical tradition of our country, the bagpipe, the dachare and the lyre. The disguises during the days of the Epiphany attract the interest of many visitors from all over Greece, while they are one of the most important cultural events in the prefecture of Drama on an annual basis. They start on Epiphany Day with the ceremony of the Consecration of the waters and end on January 8, with various variations in the settlements of Monastiraki, Volaka, Petrousa, Xiropotamos, Pyrgoi, Kali Vrysi and in recent years in Pagoneri. In more detail:

In Monastiraki, the disguises take place on Epiphany Day, with the appearance of the Arapids. There are also groups of men, some of whom are dressed as choliadas, and others who wear the local women’s costume, the Girls or Giliges, as they are called. The main protagonists of the action, the Arapides (Carnivals), have their faces smeared with charcoal dust or covered with black cloth, and are dressed in long woven capes and high hoods on the head of goatskin, which also cover the face, with holes opened for the eyes and the mouth. They have bells hanging from their waists and hold a wooden sword in one hand and a bag of ashes in the other. The group, Cheta as it is called, also has two trusted faces, who are not disguised, the so-called Chetabassides and they go around the whole village from the morning of the day, dance in front of every house and wish for good health and a rich harvest. The dance is accompanied by lyre and daere (tambourine). In the afternoon, everyone gathers in the village square and a wild dance follows.

In Pagoneri, on Epiphany Day, the custom of “Harapides” or “Arapides” will be revived after the consecration of the waters, in the Pera vryses of the settlement. The Cultural Association of Pagoneri invites all those who want to live this experience up close to come to Pagoneri on the day of the Lights from 12:00 noon, where with the sounds of Bagpipes, Dachare and bell-ringers they will spend unforgettable moments. The Association will offer free tsipouro, wine and sausages.

The events of the Pyrgoi begin on Epiphany Day on January 6 with “Davaniska”, a traditional feast to the sounds of the bagpipes, the Macedonian lyre and the dachare, the climax of the evening is at 12 midnight when the bell ringers make their appearance as the ringing of the bells mark the beginning of the triday. The party lasts until the morning and all the inhabitants stay awake drinking and dancing accompanied by wine and food. The next day, on the 7th of the month of St. John, the round of bell-ringers starts in the morning from house to house collecting flour, cheese, wine and whatever else everyone has to give, ending up in the square where a feast is set up with local dances.
In the afternoon of the same day, the “arkoudes” make their appearance ringing the bells to ward off evil, followed by a dance for everyone in the village square where they can enjoy free wine and Chobanski spaghetti.

On the 8th of January in the afternoon we have the representation of the satirical wedding, the so-called “Babiden” day of Babo. On this day there is participation from the whole world, the men dress up in full-length sheepskin coats with bells in the middle and the women dress up as “gaelic women” dressed in the traditional costume, other disguises are: doctor, pregnant, beggar, policeman, etc. The preparation for the wedding begins with the dressing of the bride and groom, where the role of the bride is taken by a young boy, and continues with the accompaniment of the lyre and tire to end up in the village square where the custom of the satyr wedding will be performed. After the wedding, there is a traditional feast for everyone with free wine and boiled goat.

In the settlement of Volakas, on January 7, Saint John, the Arabs appear in the streets, groups of 5-6 people disguised. The Arabs have a hump, which is made of a belenza full of straw, bells are girded around the waist, their heads are covered with sheepskin, their hands and faces are blackened with smoke, and in their hands, they hold a thick stick, on which they lean and sway, giving in the sound of the bells some rhythm. Along with each group of Arapis there is the chaousis and the bride, who in their own way give the Arapis the opportunity to shake and tease the people. The next day, January 8, there is a satirical re-enactment of a local wedding, which begins in the morning and ends in the afternoon with a group feast. On the same day, the Bears come out, groups of disguised people wearing full sheepskin coats. In each group there is the bearer, who directs the bears with a tambourine, spreading merriment and joy.
From the morning of January 7, a large group starts “illuminating the village”, as they say. In front of them go men with smeared faces and the sign of the cross etched with paint on their foreheads, who are constantly drinking and dancing. Next come the instruments, lyres and dachares, and behind them, Zacharias the camel with his company. Everyone drinks and dances, going around the streets of the village, where all its inhabitants participate in this festival of joy. The next day, January 8, the camel company again takes a walk through the village, inviting the inhabitants to dance and fun. The leader of the dance is the so-called ash-bearer, who holds a sock filled with ashes, with which he hits anyone who prevents the development of the dance circle. Next are old women and old men. During the celebration, various scenes of everyday village life are re-enacted (sowing, harvesting, etc.). A satirical representation of a local wedding follows here as well and the feast lasts until late at night, with plenty of tsipouro and “mixed” drinks.
In Xiropotamos, the event takes place on January 7th, St. John’s Day, and the group of disguised people also consists of Tsoliades, Brides and Arapides, formerly also of a bear with a bear cub. The participation of residents and visitors is universal, while there is a presentation of dances in the village square in the afternoon by the local Cultural Association. Previously, the group of disguised people have visited the houses of the village that have John, where they wish and receive the related treats.
In the settlement of Kali Vrysis, at the end of the consecration ceremony, the Babugeras gather outside the church, disguised as animals and wearing five large shepherd’s bells. With their noisy presence they give a completely special tone to the whole scene. Roaming in groups or individually, the Babugeras, in the streets and alleys of the village, hunt those they meet with cheerful teasing, both on the day of Epiphany and the day after Saint John. They give this present also on January 8, at the climax of the three-day events with the satirical wedding reenactment, with the participation in the joy and feast of the whole village and the visitors, who on this day flock to Kali Vrysi from Drama, but also others regions. The events take place in the village square while the traditional wedding will start this year at 2 pm.